The Legend

According to the famous ancient Roman poet Ovid, in his Metamorphoses, red coral was born from the blood of one of the Gorgons, Medusa, when Perseus beheaded her. The Gorgons had hair shaped like snakes, golden wings, and bronze hands, and their monstrous appearance turned anyone who met their gaze to stone.

The blood dripping from Medusa's severed head, upon contact with the foam created by the waves, petrified some algae, which turned red with the blood.

For many centuries, it was a hybrid element, as the distinctive elements of the three kingdoms of nature—animal, vegetal, and mineral—coexist within coral. 

History

In ancient Rome, coral was used and known for its healing and apotropaic properties.

Numerous paintings, depictions, and descriptions depict newborns wearing coral branches, sometimes in the shape of a cross, making coral a veritable amulet against evil.

As early as 1400, coral was fished raw off the Italian coast and processed in large quantities in Torre del Greco, a seaside town on the slopes of Vesuvius, about ten kilometers from Naples.

The expert working of coral shifted interest from a mystical aspect to an element of wonder for the creation of refined artisanal objects with religious or mythological themes, which soon found favor in the Italian and Spanish courts in particular. 

It was not until 1806, however, that coral processing was officially recognized as a link to the city of Torre del Greco. It all happened thanks to Paolo Bartolomeo Martin, a native of Marseille with Genoese origins, who had learned the art of coral carving in important and prestigious workshops in Marseille. Forced to leave his homeland after the French Revolution, he reached Torre del Greco, where he immediately recognized the area's economic and naturalistic potential.

The date is March 27, 1805, and on this day, Martin obtained permission from King Ferdinand IV of Bourbon to open the first coral carving factory in Torre del Greco and exemption from duties for the export of worked coral and for internal trade within the Kingdom, provided he trained young apprentices in coral carving.

Since then, the art of coral carving in Torre del Greco has been passed down for generations.

In 1876, a decree of the XII Legislature established the "School of Coral Engraving and Artistic and Industrial Design" in Torre del Greco, specifically to train young people in the art of engraving.

Sustainability

Over the centuries, coral processing has unfortunately also resulted in the raw material being obtained for many years with unsuitable tools and little awareness of the sustainability of the marine biosphere.

Coral fishing used a cross-shaped tool, called a "ingegno," which plowed the seabed to bring the coral back up. However, this system uprooted the coral from the seabed, preventing its regrowth.

With time, equipment, and knowledge of biosystems, coral fishing has been regulated to ensure the ecosystem's sustainability.

To this end, it is important to clarify that the corals used in jewelry are very different from those found in coral reefs. The type of coral used and processed for jewelry belongs to the Gorgonians family, while the corals from tropical reefs belong to the Madreporaria family, which live in shallow waters and are too fragile to be processed into jewelry, and their harvesting and sale are prohibited.

The five coral species we use for our jewelry are: Corallium rubrum (from the Mediterranean Sea), Japanicum, Elatius, Secundum, and Konjoi (all from the Pacific Ocean).

None of these species come from tropical reefs.

Japanicum coral has colors ranging from the intense red of Japanese dark red coral (Aka) to the light pink of the famous Angel Skin coral (Bokè), and from the orange of Cerasuolo to the pinkish white of Deep Sea coral or Missu.

It can also be found at great depths (up to 1,000-1,500 meters), hence the name: Deep Sea Coral.

Since July 1, 2008, this species has been listed in Appendix III of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (C.I.T.E.S.).

Since then, only corals fished before that date have been processed.

Corallium rubrum, also known as Sardinian coral or Mediterranean coral, lives at depths of up to 200 meters and is generally red in color, with lighter or darker shades depending on its origin.

The extraction of this coral is permitted and regulated by special legislation that has existed for years and has been applied throughout the Mediterranean Sea.

Thanks to this legislation, scientists have determined that these two coral species are not in danger of extinction because they are adequately protected.

We are working on the front lines to ensure their "sustainable use" under the supervision of the FAO General Fisheries Commission for the Mediterranean (GFCM).

"Sustainable use" means harvesting practices that will ensure the raw material that fuels our vessel will be available for a long time.

The most important regulations for coral management in the Mediterranean Sea are:

• Harvesting may only be carried out by divers appointed annually by Ministry decree;

• The only permitted harvesting tool is an axe;

• Harvesting at depths of less than 50 meters is prohibited;

• Authorized harvesters are required to report the quantities harvested to the authorities by completing a specific form that is used to create a database.

• The harvesting of coral branches with a diameter of less than 7 mm is prohibited;

• Harvested corals may only be landed at ports designated by local authorities. Local management plans regulating coral harvesting in various areas of the Mediterranean Sea allow for more restrictive measures than the regulations listed above.

Local management is based on a system that limits the number of harvesting licenses issued, establishes harvesting quotas for all harvesters, ensures that harvesting areas are rotated, and limits the harvesting period.

All of these measures, taken together, under the constant supervision of the GFCM, make our coral harvesting environmentally friendly and sustainable and protect the marine environment.